Saturday, April 13, 2013

Relaxing in Aqaba

Our past week has been spent in Aqaba and on the coast of the Red Sea only a few kilometers from Saudi Arabia.  We spent 3 nights in Aqaba and visited the markets, enjoyed the local restaurants, and the public beach.  We paddle boated one day, visited the ancient ruins of Ayla which were extremely unimpressive and also a museum and Castle in Aqaba.  The kids found their first McDonalds so we HAD to eat there of course which made me feel quite ill afterward but they were happy.



The next 2 nights and 3 days we spent on the south coast by a marine park in a fun little place called the Bedouin Garden Village.  It had a small pool and plenty of seating areas, a small restaurant and rooftop views.  It was the perfect place to relax and visit with other travelers.  We met a young couple from Great Britain and also a family with 3 children from Belgium.  The young girl and Lex are close to the same age and became instant friends.  As I visited with her parents we shared stories and then opted to do lunch together in Aqaba and spend the afternoon/evening at the beach snorkeling together.  We had a wonderful afternoon with them and ended it with a glass boat ride watching the fish and colorful coral below the sea.  This morning we had breakfast together and we were both headed north to Madaba so we will have dinner together again before parting our own ways.



Snorkeling for the first time.  Muslim women are fully covered when they swim so since we were on a public beach it was most comfortable to do the same.  So I have to say this is the first time I have swam in a skirt, but it was no problem.

 
New friends :-)

Hope everyone has a fantastic day!!  Life could be worse.  You could be a camel stuck in the back of a single cab Nissan pick up truck!!

Monday, April 8, 2013

HIGHLIGHTS



On one of our few afternoons of relaxation I thought I would take the time to update all those at home.  The past week has been packed full with 2 days in Dana biosphere reserve, 4 days in Wadi Musa with 3 full days of hiking in Petra and finally the past 2 days in Wadi Rum exploring the desert.  Now that we have found a hotel in Aqaba in the Southern part of Jordan just a few km from the Egypt, Israel, and Saudi Arabian borders we will sit, relax, wash sand out of all the kids orifices, catch up on Journals and then wander around Aqaba to see what it has to offer.  We found a hotel room right in the middle of the city center with views of the beautiful crystal blue Red Sea.  We are surrounded by local markets, souvenir shops, restaurants and everything else imaginable as well so we should be set for the next 3 days.  This is good because parking here in Jordan has no rules much like driving and I believe by looking out the window we may not be able to get the car out for 3 days.
Holding a baby goat that a sheep herder offered to me during a hike along the outskirts of Dana Village.


After leaving Dana Biosphere reserve we visited the shobak Castle that had a secret passageway made up of 375 steps down a dark tunnel out to a spring below the castle.  This took us about 25min to navigate through with headlamps and made it one of the kids and our favorite castles to explore.  The shobak castle was built by a crusader king in the year 1115 AD.

 Shobak Castle

 Nojah decided he didn't want to be the catapult loader.

 Tob making his climb out.

 Doorway climber.

Coming out of the long dark hole.  Then it was a brutal climb back up to the castle along the road.


In Petra we spent 3 full days hiking.  After adding up all the hours I think it totaled about 25 hours and even though donkeys and camels were offered for our riding pleasure we chose (tob and I, not the kids) to hike.  Structures date back as far as 7000 BC.  The Nabataeans settled in the area in the 6th century.  By about 8 to 40BC the area grew to about 30,000 people.  In about 100AD the Romans overtook Petra and built colonnaded streets and roman baths.  In both 363 and 551 AD Earthquakes destroyed most of the city and it became a lost city known only to the Bedouin until 1812 when it was discovered by a swiss man.  It continues to be excavated and it was pretty amazing to wander through for 3 days.


 Walking along the 1km Siq (canyon)


 The treasury


 Lexy sacrificing her brother.....

 while tob and I watch from the alter.

 So many beautiful colors within the city.

 Sacrafice was unsuccessful so this was paybacks.

 The kids and I enjoying tea with a bedouin lady on our 2nd chilly morning in Petra




In wadi Musa (the town outside of Petra) Lex and I indulged in our first Turkish bath which was great fun.  Neither of us knew what to expect of course and we started with a woman attendant who took us to a steam room and said “you stay in here 20min”  Lex and I looked at each other with funny looks.  She said “I come back and check on you and if you have had enough, you have enough, ok”  We said Ok.  At the 5 min mark we were ok when she checked on us, but I think by about 7 min we were sneaking out behind the curtain for breaths of fresh air.  She finally caught us and then we were laid to rest on warm marble slabs.  We laid on the marble for about 5 or 10 min while the back of our legs burned and she came to get alexyss for her scrubbing and massage.  I rested while Lex enjoyed the scrub and massage and almost fell asleep before she came to get me.  When I entered the room she told me to take my top off (we were in swimsuits) and lay down.  She soaped me front and back, exfoliated me and then gave me a massage with some pounding and slapping.  After I was rinsed she sent me off to the cool Jacuzzi with Lex who was having the time of her life.  After a bit in there we showered and headed back to the room.  It was a fun and relaxing experience after a long 3 days in Petra.


After Petra we arranged to stay in a Bedouin camp for the night.  I would have LOVED to spend longer there but it was pretty expensive.  When we arrived in Wadi Rum Village we met Suleman our host and he took our bags by jeep to the camp while we road camels (about a 2 hour excursion).  I was good by the end of it but the kids could have lived on the camels, especially since lex adapted well and road side saddle.  We named the camels Mohammed, Mohammed, Moses, and Nojah’s was Buddy.  We relaxed in camp with Besihn (sp?) who taught Lex her Arabic numbers and us other phrases.  We played cards and did some hiking.  By late evening other guests arrived and we visited with couples and friends from Holland, England, Texas, France, and Brazil.  It’s always fun to share travel stories.  This morning we took a jeep tour with Suleman who showed us Lawrences spring, some camel inscriptions on rock he claims are 2000 years old, played on sand dunes and enjoyed the views.

 My favorite sign so far.

 Lexy and Mohammed, and Toby and Mohammed

 Nojah and buddy.

 After our trek to camp.


 Our small camp.  Each tent had 2 or 3 small mattresses on the ground and some blankets.  Very simple.


 Sunset before dinner

A view from Lawrence's spring.  (Lawrence of Arabia)

Jordan is on the top of my list for favorite countries visited and we continue to enjoy every moment we are here.  Everyone makes traveling so enjoyable and our trip is going way too fast.  Hope all is well at home!!

Monday, April 1, 2013

More Adventures in Jordan


                                                                                                March 31, 2010
We have been traveling around Jordan now for just over a week and absolutely love it.  We are welcomed to Jordan every street we walk down, in every restaurant we eat at and everywhere else we go.  English is widely used here and even if someone is not good at English they are willing to give it a try as are we with Arabic.  It makes for some great conversations. The people are incredibly hospitable and genuinely kind.  We sent the kids across the road from the hotel where we were staying to go run off some energy and play soccer (futbol) and when we joined them they were surrounded by about 12 other local children.  When Tob and I showed up all the kids ran up yelling “hello, hello” and asked our names and shared theirs.  They helped us with our Arabic and loved helping me take pictures.   Afterward when we were getting close to leaving one boy invited us to their home for dinner.   Since it was children offering and not adults we thought better to politely decline.   From what I have heard an invitation to a home for dinner is fairly common.
Internet service hasn’t been great and takes plenty of time in the evenings just to send an email and post a few pictures on Facebook, so I apologize for neglecting our blog.

We have been busy taking in all we can.  Luckily Jordan is a small country so with the amount of time we are here we are able to slow down and soak it all in.  So far we have visited the dead sea and mount nebo, explored numerous castles (Qasr Kharana, Qusayr Amra, and Qasr al-Azraq) along the Azraq highway towards Iraq.  We spent one night up in Umm Qais exploring the ancient city of Gadara.  From the high grounds of the city we had views of the Sea of Galilee (Lake Tiberias), Israel, palastine territories, Syria and Lebanon.  There were quite a few checkpoints in the area and the soldiers would not let us take any pictures but they were all super friendly as we shared our passports with them.  From Umm Qais we headed south to Pella, another less impressive ancient city we pretty much had to ourselves to explore.  The last couple of days have been spent visiting the ancient city of Gerasa (in Jerash), a very impressive site with both a strong Roman and Greek influence.   Ajloun castle was another day where we had a great time exploring as well as witnessing an unfortunate accident.  Just below where we were standing a young girl (16-18?) fell from a ledge and laid lifelessly in front of us as people swarmed her.  It was awful.  Just before that we were watching families, kids, and young adults climbing in all areas that were closed off or supposed to be so it was a learning experience for the children but something you don’t ever want to see.

Now we are in Karak, a fun little town.  We arrived here late in the afternoon so the plan is to visit the Castle tomorrow morning.  Then we plan to head to Dana Biosphere Reserve for some hiking and beautiful scenery.  Jordan is a beautiful county unfortunately littered with garbage but the friendly people and laid back atmosphere make up for it.  The weather has been really nice, sunny and temps in the 70’s I would guess, cooler in the evenings.  The food has been wonderful.  Lots of hummus, pita bread, tobuleh (not my favorite) Kabobs made of chicken and lamb, falafel and roadside treats. 


Overlooking the promised land on Mt Nebo


Checkpoint


The sitting room in our room in Umm Qais


Our very own princess room


Oh....Tob found the squatter


Overlooking Israel and the Sea of Galilee (Lake Tiberia's)  while we were visiting the ancient city of Gadara.


One of our MANY friends in Jordan.


Ampitheter in the City of Gadara


Working on his journal


Exploring Pella


The temple of Zeus


Visiting Mohammed's shop

   
She is now mistaken for an Arabic Ninja, not a tourist.